🔗 Share this article

Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred venues. But, nestled near the top among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a outlying corner of northern London.

An Shocking Accolade

This little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. The honour has left the family totally surprised.

“I’m utterly astonished,” says a proprietor, pointing to his family’s hard graft that led to their modest place securing such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its original character. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the food, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender texture.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for below £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I feel very pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is set to echo beyond its own walls. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this culinary honour.